What if you could step into a city enclosed within another, a landscape where power and artistry reign supreme – could your imagination even capture its magnificence? Let me introduce you to the Forbidden City, a site that left me utterly silent. Now, I have had the privilege of visiting a handful of places in my life, and I must admit that the Forbidden City absolutely stands up to its reputation as a world wonder. So, for this week’s post, I want to share its splendor with you. First, I’ll share a general history of the complex, followed by a peek into the story of its last resident (which coincidentally has an excellent film adaptation). Finally, I’ll share my personal experience walking through the palace during my most recent trip to Beijing. Come along now as we explore the majesty and history held within the walls of this extraordinary imperial palace!
For over 500 years, the Forbidden City stood as the epicenter of Chinese power, the primary imperial palace, and a tangible manifestation of the emperor’s divine mandate. While later, the emperors would also utilize the exquisite Summer Palace (some pictures of which have been shared in past posts) as a retreat from the capital’s bustle, the Forbidden City remained the symbolic and administrative core. Its construction, a monumental endeavor involving hundreds of thousands of artisans and laborers, began in the early 15th century during the reign of the Yongle Emperor of the Ming Dynasty. Picture the scene: vast swathes of land being cleared, precious materials sourced from across the empire, and the painstaking craftsmanship required to erect such a sprawling complex of palaces, courtyards, and gardens. This wasn’t merely a residence; it was the nerve center of the nation, where emperors held court, issued decrees, and received dignitaries from distant lands. Through the rise and fall of the Ming and Qing dynasties, the Forbidden City remained the ultimate symbol of imperial authority, a silent witness to triumphs, tragedies, and the ebb and flow of Chinese history.
On that theme of imperial authority and silent witness of Chinese history, I want to share one of the major stories the Forbidden City has to tell: its final resident, the last emperor of China, Puyi. Imagine a life of unparalleled privilege and profound isolation, all within the gilded cage of the Forbidden City. Born into royalty, Puyi ascended the Dragon Throne at the tender age of two due to the interference of the infamous Empress Dowager Cixi, he was a mere child inheriting centuries of imperial tradition. Yet, his reign over a rapidly disintegrating China was to be tumultuous and ultimately symbolic. Envision the young emperor, surrounded by eunuchs and court officials, living a life of elaborate ceremony but largely shielded from the seismic shifts occurring in the outside world. The 1911 Revolution, a watershed moment in Chinese history, brought an end to imperial rule, yet the then-six-year-old Puyi was allowed to remain within the Forbidden City for over a decade, a relic of a bygone era within its imposing walls. A boy growing into adolescence within the palace’s confines, still treated with imperial reverence but wielding no real power; you can probably imagine how spoiled he had become in his childhood. While his story continued down a much darker path, his eventual expulsion from the Forbidden City in 1924 marked a definitive end to the imperial era within those very walls. This forever links the palace not only to the grandeur of the past but also to the poignant story of its last imperial inhabitant, something masterfully captured in 1987’s The Last Emperor, a film I recommend to anyone interested more in either his story or the chaos that defined China during that era.
Now, the story of the child-emperor was one of many that my guide teased. After all, with a history spanning so many centuries, tales of drama and intrigue abound within those walls. Stepping through the imposing gates and into the complex itself, the first thing that struck me, somewhat unexpectedly, was the presence of the People’s Liberation Army. I remember seeing a garrison of soldiers near the ticket entrances, their synchronized marching a stark contrast to the ancient setting and the chaotic throngs of people already making their way into the historical heart of the Forbidden City. Despite the crowds, our tour group pushed onward, and I soon found myself stunned before the Hall of Supreme Harmony. The sheer scale and intricate details of the architecture were breathtaking, a true testament to the artistry found throughout China’s history; it was everything I had imagined and more. However, a touch of bittersweet irony accompanied my visit, as I learned that the main throne room, the very seat of imperial power for so long, was closed due to the strong winds that day. To think, the original throne, a tangible link to all those emperors, was just beyond those closed doors! Seeking a moment of respite from the bustling crowds and the weight of history, I found a charming little shop tucked away within the Forbidden City walls and indulged in a refreshing cup of peach tea while my group took a fifteen-minute bathroom break, a small moment of modern-day tranquility amongst the ancient landscape.
After that break, I found myself lost in daydreams, walking through the seemingly endless network of alleys within, it was as if the very stones beneath my feet whispered echoes of centuries past. It wasn’t difficult to close my eyes for a moment and imagine the flurry of activity that once filled these pathways – the hurried steps of eunuchs attending to imperial needs, the graceful processions of royalty moving between palaces, perhaps even the hushed whispers of courtly intrigue, all contained within the narrow vermilion alleys. Another one of my personal highlights was discovering the personal palace of the infamous Empress Dowager Cixi. Standing in her former residence, you could almost sense the formidable presence she once commanded, a powerful woman who shaped the destiny of an empire often by speaking or simply lifting a finger. The group tour finished in the rear of the Forbidden City in a beautiful garden that offered a tranquil escape for the imperial family. The delicate rock formations, serene ponds, and carefully cultivated flora likely offered them a moment of quiet contemplation separate from the otherwise bustling situation that awaited outside. Finally, after hours of exploration and soaking in the history, I concluded with a delightful culinary experience inside the complex. Indulging in a dim sum meal, I took a moment to process all the information I had received through both my eyes and ears, something that wasn’t difficult to do while chowing down on some delicious black dumplings infused with truffle. With that final savory note, I bid farewell to the magnificent Forbidden City, its splendor and stories woven firmly into my memories of Beijing.
My glimpse into this splendor and the history of the Forbidden City only scratched the surface of what this magnificent complex holds. If you ever have the opportunity to walk its ancient stones and uncover its myriad of secrets for yourself, I wholeheartedly encourage you to do so – it’s an experience that truly transcends the pages of history books!
In terms of blog announcements, I’m happy to say that we have crossed 75 subscribers on the Substack while averaging around 200 readers a week. This is excellent news, and I’m so thankful for all of you! I will set the modest goal of reaching 100 subscribers by the end of the year. Next week, another video post (like the ferry to Matsu) will highlight what it’s like to fly on a Chinese airline in 2025. You will also be able to find the video on my YouTube channel next week, where it will likely be posted an hour or so before it gets sent to your email inbox. So, fasten your seatbelt and put your tray table in the upright position because in a week’s time you’ll be joining me on my China Southern Airlines flight back to Taipei!
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